Can I tape my dog’s ears myself? Yes, you can tape your dog’s ears yourself, but it takes patience and the right dog ear taping technique. Many dog owners successfully learn this skill at home, especially for breeds requiring upright ears like German Shepherds or Dobermans.
Taping dog ears is a common practice, often done to help erect naturally floppy ears stand straight. This is crucial for certain breeds, especially after ear cropping aftercare taping. It helps guide cartilage development. Success depends on timing, the right materials, and consistent application. We will explore the step-by-step process for achieving the best results safely.
Deciphering When to Tape a Puppy’s Ears
Timing is everything when you start taping. When to tape a puppy’s ears greatly affects the final outcome. If you wait too long, the cartilage may set in a floppy position, making taping less effective.
- Small Breeds (e.g., Chihuahuas): Taping might begin as early as 8 to 12 weeks, depending on the vet’s advice.
- Medium/Large Breeds (e.g., German Shepherds, Boxers): Taping usually starts after the ear crop stitches are removed, often between 10 to 16 weeks old.
- Dobermans: The ear setting for Dobermans often begins around 12 to 16 weeks. Always follow your surgeon’s specific schedule.
Starting too early before the ears are fully developed can damage soft cartilage. Starting too late might mean the cartilage is too firm to change shape easily.
Essential Supplies for Taping Dog Ears
Gathering the right supplies for taping dog ears makes the whole process much smoother. Using the wrong materials can cause skin irritation or fail to hold the ear correctly.
Table 1: Recommended Taping Supplies
| Item | Purpose | Key Features |
|---|---|---|
| Medical Tape | Primary holding and support. | Breathable, gentle adhesive, hypoallergenic. Do not use standard household tape! |
| Gauze or Cotton | Padding and barrier between skin and tape. | Soft, absorbent, prevents rubbing. |
| Mollfoam or Foam Sleeves | Creating stiff support structures. | Lightweight, provides firm but gentle straightening force. |
| Ear Care Wipes/Solution | Cleaning ears before taping. | Antiseptic or gentle cleanser to remove oils. |
| Scissors/Clips | Cutting tape and foam to size. | Sharp enough for clean cuts. |
| Taping Posts (Optional) | Rigid internal support for very floppy ears. | Cardboard tubes or specialized plastic rods. |
Step-by-Step: The Dog Ear Taping Technique
Mastering the dog ear taping technique requires precision. This process involves cleaning, padding, positioning, and taping.
Step 1: Preparation and Cleaning
Clean ears are vital. Dirt and oil make tape fall off fast.
- Gently clean the inside and outside of the ear flap. Use a vet-approved cleanser or rubbing alcohol only on the outer skin, avoiding the ear canal opening.
- Let the ear dry completely. Dampness prevents the tape from sticking well.
- Trim any long ear hair near the base of the ear. Hair catches the adhesive and pulls painfully when removing tape.
Step 2: Creating the Internal Support (The Post)
For most breeds needing full erection, you need an internal stiffener. This is the core of effective ear bracing for dogs.
- Measure the Post: The support post should be slightly taller than the final desired standing height of the ear. You can use a foam backer rod, a piece of firm cardboard, or specialized synthetic posts.
- Pad the Tip: Wrap the top 1/2 inch of the post in soft cotton or gauze. This prevents the hard material from poking the dog’s head or the top of the ear.
- Positioning the Post: Place the padded post inside the ear canal area, running up the center line of the ear flap. It should sit securely but not push too far down the ear canal opening.
Step 3: Applying the Base Layer (The Foundation)
This layer protects the ear skin from the main tape adhesive.
- Cut strips of thin gauze or specialized foam tape.
- Wrap the entire ear flap, starting from the base and moving upward, ensuring the wrap is smooth. This layer stabilizes the ear before the rigid support goes on.
Step 4: Securing the Support and Taping
This is the critical part of taping floppy dog ears. The goal is to hold the ear perfectly vertical against the support post.
- Taping the Post: Wrap the medical tape securely around the internal post and the ear flap, pulling gently upward. Ensure the tape follows the natural line of the ear.
- The Cross-Brace (For Stability): For breeds like taping German Shepherd ears, you often need external stability. Create an ‘X’ shape across the back of the head, taping the tops of both ears together using the tape base. This prevents the ears from leaning too far inward or outward.
- Checking Tension: The tape must be snug enough to hold the ear erect, but never so tight that it cuts off circulation or causes discomfort. Check the base of the ear flap; it should feel firm but not swollen or hot.
Specific Techniques for Different Breeds
The correct way to tape pointed ears varies based on ear shape and crop style.
Ear Setting for Dobermans
Doberman ears are usually cropped to a longer, more upright style. Their taping requires long, strong supports.
- Support Length: Doberman posts are often quite long, sometimes extending 6 to 10 inches above the head.
- Base Wrap: A heavy layer of moleskin or thick foam is often used at the base of the ear to provide extra strength against floppiness near the head.
- Frequency: Doberman ears often require taping for many months, sometimes with adjustments to the post length as the dog grows.
Taping German Shepherd Ears
German Shepherds can have highly variable ear sets. Some stand easily; others need significant help.
- Focus on the Tip: Often, the base of the German Shepherd ear is strong, but the tips flop over. Use a lighter post focused mainly on reinforcing the top third of the ear.
- The “Crescent” Tape: Sometimes, instead of a full post, a simple crescent-shaped piece of foam placed against the back curve of the ear helps push the tip outward and upward without needing a full, long post.
Addressing Floppy Ears (Taping Floppy Dog Ears)
If your dog has naturally floppy ears (like Beagles or Cocker Spaniels), taping is usually done to correct a weak spot or if the dog had surgery.
- Goal Adjustment: If the goal is just to keep the ears clean for bathing or if there is an infection, light netting or breathable wraps are better than rigid posts.
- Cartilage Strengthening: If you are trying to train floppy ears to stand (only recommended by a vet for specific mixed breeds), focus on taping them straight up for several hours daily, rather than trying to hold them erect 24/7.
Maintenance and Care During Taping
The real challenge is maintaining the taped ears without harming the skin.
How Long Should Ears Stay Taped?
This varies greatly. For post-cropping support, it might be 7 to 10 days between changes. For minor adjustments, maybe 3 to 5 days. Never leave tape on for more than 14 days straight.
Dealing with Skin Irritation
Skin breakdown is the most common problem in troubleshooting dog ear taping.
- Signs of Trouble: Redness, rash, weeping sores, bad odor, or the dog constantly scratching the area.
- Immediate Action: Remove the tape immediately and let the ears air out for at least 24 hours. Treat any skin issues with vet-approved topical ointments.
- Prevention: Always use a skin barrier. This can be a thin layer of zinc oxide cream or a medical spray barrier applied before the initial gauze layer.
Cleaning Between Taping Sessions
When you remove the tape, you must clean thoroughly.
- Use a soft towel and warm water to gently peel the tape off. Pull in the direction of hair growth.
- Use your cleaning solution to remove all adhesive residue.
- Air dry completely before re-taping. This break is crucial for skin health.
Troubleshooting Dog Ear Taping Issues
Even with the best intentions, problems arise. Here is how to address common difficulties.
Problem 1: Ears Keep Falling Over
Cause: The support post is too weak or too short. The tape tension is incorrect, or the dog is rubbing them.
Fix:
- Use a stiffer material for the post (e.g., switch from soft foam to firm plastic).
- Make the post slightly longer.
- Increase the number of cross-braces connecting the two ears across the top of the head. Ensure the base of the ear is firmly taped to the head before going up the post.
Problem 2: Tape is Sliding Down the Ear
Cause: Skin oils, moisture, or not enough surface area coverage.
Fix:
- Clean the ear base exceptionally well before applying tape.
- Use a “tackifier” spray (ask your vet) just before applying the tape base layer.
- Ensure the first layer of tape covers the entire base area near the skull where the ear meets the head.
Problem 3: Dog Is Too Agitated
Dogs often dislike the feeling of restrictive taping.
Fix:
- Keep initial taping sessions short.
- Reward heavily during the taping process with high-value treats.
- Use soft, breathable materials initially to help the dog adjust.
- If the dog is frantic, consult your vet about mild, temporary sedatives for re-taping sessions, especially during the first few weeks of ear cropping aftercare taping.
The Role of Ear Bracing for Dogs
Ear bracing for dogs is a term often used interchangeably with taping, but it sometimes refers to using external plastic or metal supports rather than just soft tape and foam. This is usually reserved for cartilage that is very reluctant to stand.
- Structure: Bracing involves rigid external splints that are taped onto the outside of the ear flap.
- Use Case: This technique is more aggressive and should generally only be used under direct veterinary supervision, often when the dog is older and the cartilage is thick. It applies more sustained, directed pressure.
Post-Taping Care and Long-Term Success
Once your dog’s ears stand reliably on their own without support, you transition to maintenance.
- Gradual Weaning: Do not stop taping suddenly. If the ears stood for six weeks straight, try leaving them untaped for 12 hours, then tape them for two days. Gradually increase the time they spend unwrapped.
- Spot Checking: For the next few months, check the ears daily. If you notice them starting to soften or droop at the tips, apply a very light tape support for just a few days to reinforce the shape.
- Adult Maintenance: For correctly set ears, no further taping should be needed. Healthy, erect ears should stand firmly regardless of weather or activity.
The commitment required for successful ear posting can be significant. Owners must be prepared for months of dedicated work to achieve the breed standard look. Patience is the single most important tool in your supplies for taping dog ears kit.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
How often should I change the tape when initially posting ears?
Generally, you should change the tape every 5 to 10 days. If you notice the dog is excessively shaking its head or if the tape feels very damp or loose, change it sooner. Never let the tape stay on for more than two weeks continuously.
Can taping hurt my dog’s ears?
Taping itself should not hurt if done correctly. Pain usually results from tape being too tight, tape being pulled off too quickly, or adhesive causing skin irritation. Always ensure you can slide a small piece of gauze easily between the tape and the skin at the base of the ear.
What do I do if my puppy chews the tape off?
If your puppy chews the tape off, you must retape them as soon as possible to maintain the position. You might need to use an Elizabethan collar (cone) temporarily if they are focused on chewing. Use high-value treats during the taping process to create a positive association, making them less likely to remove the tape.
Are there alternatives to taping for standing ears?
Yes, some vets use specialized plastic or synthetic external splints that are often lighter than traditional tape wraps. In some cases, supplements designed to support cartilage (like those containing MSM or Glucosamine) are used alongside taping, though these take much longer to show results. Surgical revision is the final, most drastic alternative if non-surgical methods fail.